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To give a sense of the availability of entertainment in Havana my first day unfolded as follows. About 11am, after visiting a museum and the Cathedral, I had a beer in the plaza in front of the Cathedral. A hotel house band was playing typical Cuban tourist music, sax, percussion, guitars and voices.

After lunch I came across a concert in a small room which opened onto the street. There were about 30 in the audience, mainly Cuban. In the time I was there three woman harmonised unaccompanied, a young woman did a belly dancing routine and a man sang with his guitar, and no money changed hands at all. I don't know if it was a rehearsal for something later or just a community thing, but as soon as I stopped outside to listen I was encouraged in and made welcome.

Late afternoon, after checking out a few more of the sites, I stopped at a bar for an icecream sundae where the band was belting out salsa (a mixture of African and Spanish influences). Then I headed for the Malecon and stopped to listen to a percussion and string outfit provide backing for some very energetic dance. The hat went around for donations.

In the evenings almost everywhere tourists ate there was live music. My favourite eating place was known for its salsa dance. One evening I went to a local concert where the instuments looked handcrafted and the place really jumped.

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